We examined the relationship between ease of pyjamas and body on the thermal insulation of men’s pyjamas made from a knitted fabric of a new cotton-based non-twisted hollow yarn to obtain design guidelines for higher heat retention. We made six sets of men’s pyjamas that have different ease for the circumferences of chest, hip, and sleeve. We measured the heating power required for different parts of a thermal manikin to remain at a constant temperature when the manikin wore the pyjamas. We also measured the thermal insulation when the cuffs of the upper garment and the hems of the lower garment were closed with belts. To evaluate the effect of ease of wearing state on thermal insulation quantitatively, the differences of circumference and area of the cross-section between thermal manikin and a pyjama worn on the manikin were calculated from those 3D scanned data. We investigated the relationship between the heating power and the differences. As a result, the heat retention increased as the differences increased although there are variations depending on the location. There was almost no effect of convection from the cuffs and hems in the experimental environment without wind.

This paper takes jacket as an example, constructs a clothing knowledge model based on domain ontology, and explores ways to represent and reuse clothing knowledge in the context of the Internet economy. In this paper, jacket knowledge is sorted out based on the dimension of life week of clothing products, and the jacket knowledge framework is subdivided under the guidance of the modular design concept, laying a foundation for further application of the framework. The research shows that combining ontology modeling technology and knowledge representation, jacket domain ontology can be constructed to realize the classification of jacket design knowledge. This paper also further discusses the application prospect of jacket knowledge framework, which can play a guiding role in the customization of the jacket and modular design of the jacket, improve the reuse rate of jacket knowledge, and provide a feasible application mode for garment knowledge management.

The jersey knitwear market occupies most of the knitting market due to its relatively simple manufacturing process and high public acceptance. Pattern design composed of some simple lines and geometric patterns usually applied to jersey knitwear, but it can not take advantage of knitting fabrics as much as possible. Therefore, in order to combine the merit of knitwear, the research process is as follows: firstly, learning about women’s preferences for knitwear in their 30s and 50s through questionnaire distribution and in-store inquiries. Secondly, designing and producing urban women’s knitwear collections with optical illusion patterns. The yarn used in this design experiment is mostly 100% 80s Australian wool, and the equipment is STOLL M1 plus—a computerized flat knitting machine, all of which are provided and assisted by the FSF factory, Suzhou, China. It is finally determined that the jacquard pattern put into production is double-sided birdeye jacquard and air layer jacquard. In terms of the final collection effect, the design ideas of “Fake Two Pieces” and “Simulated Pleated Skirt” are reflected in the collection named “chengSHi”. The combination of knitwear and optical illusion patterns dramatically simplifies the production process and improves production efficiency owing to knitwear’s one-piece weaving. Moreover, it also provides new inspiration for knitwear design.

Pleating is a common modeling technique in the manufacturing of garments. As requirements for the style of pleats are gradually increasing, it is necessary to consider the pleats modeling and force conditions In this paper, draping experiments were carried out with the warp yarn on horizontal, vertical, and a 45◦ angle (bias) for three types, After analyzing the modeling garment pleats, force conditions and comparing the angle of the resultant force, it can be concluded that the modeling and the force of the pleats varies with the direction of the yarn. The species of pleats are different and their modeling is forced differently. The results demonstrate that the modeling of draped pleats and sunray pleats-upper-length are mainly affected by gravity, the bias fabric was desirable in terms of roundness, symmetry and softness. For sunray pleats-whole-length style, the neckline, modeling, quantity and size of pleats, the stability of hem, and the effect of force should be rationally utilized to achieve the optimal styling. The modeling of mummy pleats was greatly affected by the stretch, the bias stripes were the optimal choice.

Temperature greatly influences the choice of clothing type. It is difficult to study the effect of temperature on the performance of a garment and the used fabric, as changes in temperature varies significantly within a year, a season or even a day. This research paper studied the effect of fabric properties on human thermal comfort under different environmental temperatures. The main methodology entails using a CAD software to simulate clothing thermal comfort value of a garment made of 6 fabric types, then conducting analysis on the simulation results. The results indicate that fabrics perform better within a range of temperature. The further they stray from the range, the smaller the impact of the fabrics on human comfort. The results from the methodology also demonstrates that activity types and temperature greatly affect the comfort value.